Nigel Slater’s 5 recipes for the festive season
- December 19, 2017
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There is much to celebrate in the kitchen. The festive partnership of meat and fruits (think fruit-speckled stuffing for the turkey, roast goose and apple sauce); the brilliant green and gold of brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes; the once-a-year decadence of sozzled Yuletide puddings and fruitcakes.
The Big Meal, whether you are carving turkey, goose or a classic nut roast, is pretty much non-negotiable for most of us, but there are so many other meals in which to celebrate the flavours of the season. The recipes coming out of my kitchen this month have, at their heart, the essence of Christmas. And, though they are meant for every day, each would be happy to find a place on the Christmas table.
Scallops with jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts
Jerusalem artichokes and scallops are very happy in each other’s company.(They work well as a soup too. The grilled seafood placed in the centre of the soup like sunken treasure.) You could make a purée of the tubers if you wish, but by cooking them in a little butter as I do here, you get some deep toasty notes going on. The chervil is not essential. Should it remain elusive, as it so often does, then a little tarragon will work wonders.
Serves 3-6
lemon 1
jerusalem artichokes 250g
butter 90g
hazelnuts a large handful
clementine 1
scallops 6
chervil a few sprigs
Have ready a bowl of cold water into which you have squeezed half the lemon. Peel the jerusalem artichokes, slice them as thinly as possible, then put them in the acidulated water.
Melt half the butter in a shallow pan over a low to moderate heat. Pat the artichokes dry using a paper towel then add them, in a single layer, to the butter. Let the artichokes cook until each piece has softened and is pale gold in colour. Turn with kitchen tongs and brown the other side then transfer to a warm plate and set aside.
In a dry, shallow pan, toast the hazelnuts till golden brown then remove and roughly chop them. Finely grate the zest from the clementine.
Melt the remaining butter in the pan (if you are using the artichoke pan, wipe the pan first with a paper towel then add the new butter). When the butter starts to fizz add the scallops, cook for one minute then turn and continue to cook for a further minute or two till opaque and their edges are pale gold. Squeeze the remaining lemon into the pan, add the hazelnuts, chervil and a light seasoning of salt.
Divide the artichokes, scallops and hazelnuts between six hot dishes (or three if you are serving two per person), add the butter from the pan, the chervil and the clementine zest and serve immediately.
Winter leaf salad with feta cream
The bitter and earthy leaves seem to come into their own in winter, working well with walnuts, apples, pears and other seasonal pleasures. I like their bitterness with salty creamy cheeses.
Serves 4
small leaves of rainbow chard 200g
radiccio or other chicory 100g
celery 1 stick
sprouted seeds such as red amarynth, beetroot or radish
For the dressing
olive oil 2 tbsp
white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
dijon mustard ½ tsp
For the feta cream
parsley 2 tbsp, roughly chopped
feta cheese 200g
natural yogurt 200g
walnut halves 24
Shred the chard stems into matchsticks, removing the leaves as you go. Put the stems in a large bowl, tear up the leaves and add them to the stems, discarding any that are less than tender. Break the chicory into individual leaves and add them to the chard. Finely slice the celery and combine with the leaves.
Mix the olive oil, vinegar, mustard and a little salt and pepper together. You can beat the mixture with a fork or small whisk, or shake the ingredients together in a jam jar. Pour the dressing over the leaves and set aside.
Put the chopped parsley in a mixing bowl. Crumble the feta cheese into the parsley, then gently fold in the yogurt. Season with black pepper, no salt. Toast the walnut halves in a dry pan until they are golden and fragrant.
Divide the salad leaves between four plates, add a large spoonful of the creamed feta then a handful of the sprouted seeds and the toasted walnuts.
Polpettone puddings with guanciale and prunes
Much festive flavour here. The guanciale, the cured cheeks and jowl of the pig, is worth seeking out – its fragrant fat melts and keeps the little puddings deliciously moist. If you can’t get it (Italian grocers are a good hunting ground), double up on the pancetta.
Serves 4
onions 4, medium
olive oil 3 tbsp
fennel seeds 1 tbsp
guanciale 150g, thinly sliced
pancetta 150g, in one piece
prunes 100g, stoned, semi-dried
minced pork 450g
ground mace ½ tsp
For the sauce
pumpkin 1kg
cranberries 100g
butter 30g
You will need 4 steel pudding moulds or ramekins, each holding 250ml.
Peel the onions and chop them very finely. Warm the olive oil in a shallow pan, add the onions and fennel seeds and let them cook over a medium heat until they have become soft and translucent. Cut the guanciale into small pieces and the pancetta into small cubes. Shred the prunes. Preheat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6.
Put the guanciale, pancetta and prunes in a mixing bowl, then add the minced pork and softened onions. Season with salt and pepper and the ground mace. Mix everything together. (I find this easiest with my hands.)
Cut four small circles of baking parchment to fit the base of each of the pudding moulds. Lightly oil the sides then divide the mixture between the four. They will be quite full.
Pour hot water into a roasting tin – you need the water to be deep enough to come half way up the sides of the puddings. Wrap each one in clingfilm, then lower into the water. Place carefully in the oven and bake for 45 minutes until firm to the touch.
To make the sauce, peel the pumpkin and cut into chunks, put into a saucepan with 300mls of water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 15-20 minutes until the pumpkin is very soft. Process to a smooth purée using a food processor or stick blender. Season with salt and black pepper then return to the pan, add the cranberries and butter then simmer for 5 minutes. Lightly crush the berries against the side of the pan with a spoon.
Remove the puddings from the oven, remove the film, turn them out onto four plates then spoon over the pumpkin and cranberry sauce.
Sweet potato, brussels sprouts and rosemary
An accompaniment, but one I would be happy to serve as a principal dish.
Serves 6 as a side dish, 3 as a main
sweet potatoes 500g
brussels sprouts 200g
rosemary 5 sprigs
parmesan 100g
butter 50g
olive oil 2 tbsp
Peel the sweet potatoes then coarsely grate them. Trim and finely shred the sprouts. They should ideally be no thicker than a pound coin. Remove the leaves from the rosemary sprigs and finely chop them. Grate the parmesan. Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6.
Melt the butter in a shallow pan over a moderate heat, then pour in the oil. Cook the grated sweet potatoes for 4-5 minutes, until they start to soften. Remove from the heat and combine with the chopped rosemary and shredded sprouts, then season with 75g of the grated parmesan and some black pepper.
Line a baking sheet, about 20cm x 30cm, with baking parchment, then tip in the softened sweet potatoes and sprouts and smooth flat. Dust the remaining grated cheese over the top and bake for 30-35 minutes until the surface is golden and lightly crisp.
Divide into six pieces and serve.
Meringue, persimmon and hot mincemeat parfait
A quick fruit and cream dessert for a winter’s day. As there is already enough to do at this time of year, I use shop-bought meringues, though you could, of course, make your own.
Serves 4
double cream 250ml
meringues 150g
cinnamon a pinch
persimmons 1 large, ripe
mincemeat 250g
brandy a splash
In a large, chilled mixing bowl, whip the cream till just thick. Stop before it is firm enough to stand in peaks. Crumble the meringues into the cream. Then add the merest pinch of ground cinnamon.
Peel the persimmon if you wish (I generally don’t find it necessary), and slice into thick rounds and then into quarters. Add to the cream and meringue then gently fold the ingredients together.
Put the mincemeat in a small saucepan, pour in the brandy and bring to the boil. Simmer for a couple of minutes. Spoon the meringue and cream into dishes, then spoon over the hot mincemeat.
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